Description
Review this item in the context of the repair, installation access, nearby parts, and the result the completed job is intended to achieve.
John Deere Authentic OEM Product
No structured vehicle fitment data is available. Compare the listing with the vehicle and existing part before ordering.
Repair scenarios, installation, companion parts, and use outcomes
Buying guidance
Quick decision
Review this spacers in the context of the repair and the surrounding components.
Repair scenario
- Identify the symptom and confirm that this is the component required by the repair.
- Inspect nearby connectors, fasteners, and mating surfaces before installation.
Installation notes
- Use the listing instructions when present and follow the vehicle service procedure.
- Professional installation may be appropriate when the repair requires special tools or calibration.
Companion parts
- Inspect nearby fasteners, connectors, seals, fluids, and wear items before starting the repair.
- Use the service procedure and the visible package contents to identify any additional parts or tools required.
Before you buy
- Compare the listing title, photos, package contents, and specifications with the part being replaced.
- Confirm vehicle compatibility and installation requirements before ordering.
Customer feedback
Ratings and written reviews
5.0 / 5
8 source ratings
Source: Amazon. Imported marketplace feedback is shown for product research and is not a review of a purchase made on this website.
Roberto Lopez –
shipped on time, well packaged, and seems to be great quality. Yes I would purchase this again.
Timothy Seigfried –
worked great
Phreich –
I got this to repair the idler pulley on my John Deere STX38 riding mower. The Idler pulley bearing seized and started spinning on this spacer, which wore it down to the point that the replacement bearing wouldn’t fit well. This fixed the issue (along with a replacement bolt, nylock nut and a new bearing.I was able to drill the rivets out of the idler pulley, and then discovered that they also spot-welded the two halves of the pulley together, and drilled out those spot welds and was able to pull the pulley apart and replace the seized bearing. The bearing I used was a fully sealed “Timken 6203-2RSC3 6203-2RS Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm” which has a rubber seal on both sides (that’s the 2RS part of the bearing number) sold on Amazon for $10.95 here:https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SR3FZRCI went with the Timken because it is a known quality bearing brand that will likely last as long or longer than the original bearing (which lasted 24 years). The cheaper no-name bearings can be problematic. The aftermarket idler pulleys use these no-name bearings, so I decided to take the time to rebuild this idler, as I didn’t want to pay JD’s price for a replacement. I used stainless steel #10 bolts and nylock nuts to replace the drilled out rivets and the spot-welds.